DE102012214716A1 - Cosmetic emulsion comprises at least one phosphate emulsifier comprising triceteareth-4 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic emulsion comprises at least one phosphate emulsifier.

Description

The present invention relates to an emulsion stabilized by phosphate emulsifiers.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in man. Although the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man. An essential part of a beautiful and attractive appearance is the condition and appearance of the skin.

For the skin to fulfill its biological functions to the full extent, it needs regular cleaning and care. Cleansing of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and remnants of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products are usually used to moisten and restore the skin. Often, agents that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g., wrinkles, wrinkles) are added to them.

Skin care products usually consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases, and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. Viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion. The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. In a water-in-oil emulsion is the reverse principle, the basic character is determined by the oil here.

A classic emulsifier for the preparation of emulsions is potassium cetyl phosphate in combination with hydrogenated palm oil glycerides.

A disadvantage of the prior art, however, is the fact that cosmetic emulsions, in particular O / W emulsions are often very thin. If you want to take these preparations, for example, from a storage container and apply to the face, they run a "through the fingers" and drip uncontrollably towards the ground.

In order to literally "handle" such problems, consistency agents (thickeners) are added to these emulsions, for example polyacrylates, carrageenan and the like, which give the formulation a corresponding viscosity and yield point.

However, such thickening agents are relatively expensive, cause problems in the preparation of the preparation, and, as such, can cause any substance to interfere with other components of the preparation or the skin.

In particular, in the preparation of the emulsion additional time and energy consuming additional steps are necessary if a thickener is to be eigearbeitet. Often these compounds must be "pre-swollen". After incorporation, it is only allowed to stir / homogenize with reduced shear forces so that the gel skeleton does not suffer irreparable damage. This prolongs the time of the manufacturing process.

Another disadvantage is the stabilization of active ingredients in emulsions. In cosmetics and dermatology, urea is regarded as a particularly effective active ingredient, but also as a great challenge for the developer. Urea is considered in about 2% preparations as granulation (as granulation tissue called the typical young, vascular-rich connective tissue, which is formed in the wound and ulcer healing or in chronic inflammation and after some time in scar tissue is transformed). In higher concentrations (5-10%), the dermatologist uses the hygroscopic (water-attracting) effect of urea, for example in the treatment of ichthyosis ("fish scales disease"), psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. Hygroscopic substances, primarily urea, retain moisture in the cornea as a natural moisturizing factor. If the water content in the horny layer (caused by a lack of urea) falls below 15%, eg in atopic eczema, the skin becomes dry, brittle and cracked. Similar to atopic dermatitis, psoriasis also lacks urea in the epidermis. The result is a strong dehydration of the affected skin areas.

In cosmetic skin preparations, urea is used as a substance that binds moisture in the skin (1 to 2%). A 10% aqueous solution of urea is bactericidal. After all, urea - which can be used both in pharmacy and cosmetics - has a keratolytic or keratoplastic effect (has a softening effect on the keratin of the skin) as well as relieves itching. Due to its polar structure, it holds the water in the skin and thereby keeps it smoothness and suppleness. The effect of the active ingredient allantoin is also based on urea, as it is split off from the allantoin. However, the problem is that urea in cosmetic and dermatological preparations is subjected to a gradual decomposition process, in which ammonia is formed. Through this decomposition process, the long-term stabilization of urea in preparations is a particular challenge.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate or at least alleviate the deficiencies of the prior art and to develop a potassium cetyl phosphate / hydrogenated palm oil glyceride-based emulsion which exhibits a higher viscosity than the prior art formulations.

The object is surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic emulsion containing one or more phosphate emulsifiers.

Embodiments characterized as "according to the invention", "in accordance with the invention", etc., in the context of this disclosure relate both to the preparation according to the invention and to the composition according to the invention.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains one or more phosphate emulsifiers in a concentration of from 0.1 to 15, preferably from 1.25 to 6.75,% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that one or more of triceteareth-4 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, potassium cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphates, trioleth-8 is used as phosphate emulsifier Phosphate is chosen.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which are e.g. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither chiefly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ^® (CAS no. 7631-86-9), talc, Lauroyl Lysine and Acrylonitrilemethacrylonitrile-methyl-methacrylate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, etc ..

The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Also advantageous according to the invention are z. As natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate , n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl, for example, that available under the trade name Cetiol CC in the company. Cognis.

It is furthermore advantageous to use the oil component (s) from the group of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-13 -alkyllactate, di-C _12-13 -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also z. B. Butyloctylsalicylat (for example, that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB at the company. CP Hall), tridecyl salicylate (which is available under the trade name Cosmacol ESI from Fa. Sasol), C12-C15 alkyl salicylate (under the trade name Dermol NS in the Fa Alzo available), Hexadecylbenzoat and Butyloctylbenzoat and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13- 16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

• (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1-24-Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1:1 bis 30:1 gewählt wird;
• (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumgebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, dass die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)
• – im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht zyklisch ist und
• – im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan zyklisch ist.

The preparations according to the invention may furthermore advantageously comprise one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• (A) siloxane elastomers containing the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (as for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1 ;
• (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being so selected be such that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
• In the range of 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
• In the range of 1 to 50 mol%, when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

It is advantageous if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.

Advantageous in the context of the present invention are preparations for the care of the skin. They may be used for cosmetic sunscreen, skin care (for example for the prevention and treatment of skin aging) and decorative cosmetics. Preferred is the use in day care products.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. All amounts, proportions and percentages are, unless otherwise stated, percentages by weight, based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. O / W emulsion 1 2 3 4 5 Phosphatemulgator 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.5 0.25 Cetylstearylalkohol 2.5 5 0.5 2.0 1.5 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 5.0 Ethylhexylglycerin 1 - 0.5 1 - ethanol - - 3.0 1 - Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0.5 0.75 0.5 2.0 0.25 Blue, water-soluble dye (Blue No.1) 0.5 1.0 0.4 3.0 0.25 Carbomer - - 0.2 - 0.1 Phosphated starch 1.0 - 4.0 - 0.5 octyldodecanol 0.5 - 1.0 - 2.0 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride - - 1.0 - 0.5 myristate - 1.5 1.0 2.5 - Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, methylparaben 0.4 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 Propylparaben 0.3 0.4 0.05 0.15 - phenoxyethanol 0.5 - 0.25 - 1.0 sea salt - - 0.01 0.5 - glycerin 5 10 7.5 15 7.5 tocopherol 0.5 0.25 0.5 0.1 - Iminodisuccinate, tetrasodium salt 0.1 0.25 0.04 - 0.2 Titanium dioxide - 2.5 1.2 0.15 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 O / W emulsion with urea 6 7 8th 9 10 Phosphatemulgator 2 1.5 2.5 2 1.5 urea 30 10 15 3 7.5 cetearylglucoside - 8th - - - cyclomethicone 1.5 1.5 2.0 2.0 7.5 dimethicone 0.5 3.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 behenyl 3 2 - 1 - stearyl 3 2 - 2 - Cetylstearylalkohol 3 4 - - 2 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.0 0.25 octyldodecanol 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 glycerin 5 10 15 3 7.5 panthenol 0.5 1.0 0.75 0.25 0.1 Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, methylparaben 0.4 0.1 0.05 0.3 0.4 Propylparaben 0.3 0.4 0.25 0.15 - modified starch 0.5 - - 0.15 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims (4)

Cosmetic emulsion containing one or more phosphate emulsifiers Emulsion according to Claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more phosphate emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 15.0, preferably 1.25 to 6.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that one or more selected from the group consisting of triceteareth-4 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, potassium cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphates, trioleth-8 phosphates are selected as the phosphate emulsifier becomes. Emulsions according to Claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains urea in a concentration of 3 to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.